Sharing Japan’s Tradition Through the Shikoku Pilgrimage
For over 1,200 years, the cultural tradition of pilgrimage has been preserved in Shikoku. Welcoming visitors to its sacred sites, the culture of hospitality towards pilgrims is deeply rooted. The Shikoku Pilgrimage is a journey of pilgrimage and training that Kobo Daishi (Kukai) took through 88 sacred sites on the island. It remains a place where you can encounter Japan’s original, unchanged spirit. This is a journey for those seeking authenticity through nature and tradition.
Following in the Footsteps of 1,200 Years Ago
Shikoku, once considered far removed from Japan’s cultural center, is home to the Shikoku Pilgrimage, a unique 1,400-kilometer circuit that remains unparalleled in the world.
Dressed in white robes, wearing a straw hat, and carrying a walking staff, pilgrims retrace the steps of Kukai, experiencing the same journey. Along the way, they encounter warm welcomes from locals and fellow travelers.
The 88 temples visited on the pilgrimage are called "fudasho," and the act of visiting them is referred to as "striking." The pilgrimage route, which forms a circular loop, is a rare example of Japan’s ancient pilgrimage culture.
Following the path of 1,200 years ago, you can feel close to the great nature of Shikoku and the peaceful temples associated with Kukai. Locals warmly support the pilgrims, making it a journey of the heart where you can reflect on yourself and experience something special that will stay with you for life.
Vast Skies and Endless Seas
Kukai, who was born in Zentsuji City, Kagawa Prefecture, in the early Heian period, is fondly referred to as "Odaishisan" on the pilgrimage. The Shikoku pilgrimage began with the belief that visiting the 88 temples selected by Kukai, who practiced ascetic training, would accumulate merit.
When Kukai lived in a cave at Cape Muroto in Muroto City, Kochi Prefecture, during the early Heian period, the view from the cave of the vast sky and sea inspired his posthumous name. Later, he was given the title "Kobo Daishi" by the Emperor.
Kukai founded the sacred site of Mt. Koya, spread the teachings of Shingon Buddhism, and worked in education and civil engineering, among other fields. His many miracles are still told throughout Japan.
Walking with Kukai
As you journey, you may encounter the warmth and kindness of the local people. The people of Shikoku refer to the pilgrims as "Ohenrosan" and welcome them with respect, offering hospitality known as "Osettai."
As you walk along the rugged mountain paths, long stone steps, tranquil rural landscapes, and calm coastal areas, you may be surprised by the locals offering sweets, drinks, or even lodging for free. This is the tradition of "Osettai," a practice that has continued since ancient times.
The people of Shikoku understand the hardships of the pilgrimage, which is why they offer "Osettai" to support the pilgrims. This tradition is not only an act of kindness towards the pilgrims but also a way of offering something to Kukai himself. Pilgrims are said to walk the pilgrimage route with Kukai at their side, under the belief of "Dogyo Ninin" (two walking together).
The straw hats worn by pilgrims are inscribed with the Sanskrit characters for Maitreya Buddha and Kukai, while the white robes bear the words "Dogyo Ninin" and "Namu Daishi Henjo Kongo" (Homage to the Great Teacher who spread the Vajra Light). This sense of being watched over helps pilgrims endure the long journey.
The starting point for this long journey is Ryozenji Temple in Naruto City, Tokushima Prefecture, a town famous for its whirlpools. In 815 AD, Kukai established this temple as the first of the 88 sacred sites on Shikoku, starting his pilgrimage route from the northeastern corner of the island. Many pilgrims take their first step on the pilgrimage here.
Kukai spent 37 days practicing rituals here, purifying the 88 worldly desires and opening a sacred site for the salvation of body and mind for all living beings. Walk this ancient pilgrimage route to experience Japan’s preserved culture firsthand.
Birthplace of Kobo Daishi, Kukai
The 75th temple, Zentsuji, is Japan’s first site for esoteric Buddhist training. It is also the birthplace of Kukai. The expansive temple grounds are divided into two sections: the "Garan" (Eastern Complex) and the "Tanjoin" (Western Complex).
The "Garan," with its main hall and five-story pagoda, has been a part of the temple since its founding and continues to convey its historical significance as the birthplace of Kobo Daishi. Each of the 88 temples holds deep historical ties to Kukai.
The Journey’s Completion
When a pilgrim finishes visiting all 88 temples, it is called "Kechigan" (completion), and the pilgrimage circle is completed by returning to the first temple for a final visit. "Kechigan" signifies the fulfillment of the pilgrim’s wishes, with the journey successfully completed. After finishing the Shikoku pilgrimage, many pilgrims visit Okunoin, the mausoleum of Kukai at Mt. Koya, to offer their gratitude.
In these places where tradition and unchanged landscapes have been preserved since ancient times, you’ll feel the warmth of the people you meet. Allow yourself to be immersed in the slow, natural flow of time in the great outdoors, and as you walk step by step, you may find yourself feeling reborn.
